Naomi Vanderleest, School Programs Coordinator
Today in the studio I was inspired by Rowland Ricketts to create natural dye. Currently in its last weekend at FWMoA, you can see Ricketts’ mastery of natural indigo dye, sourced from his own farm!
I don’t have access to a farm, but that won’t stop me! Many fruits and vegetables, including avocado pits and onion skins, in your kitchen can create a rainbow of colors.
This is what you will need to create your own dye:
- Stainless steel pot (The bigger the better! Clothing like shirts or pants need a lot of space). NOTE: Copper or aluminum pots should be avoided because the dye can react to the metal. NOTE: After using a pot for dyeing, it is no longer considered food safe.
- Stovetop
- Fabric scraps and cloth. NOTE: Cotton or linen is recommended.
- Tongs, or consider using any tool to stir
- Choose a dye plant or extract. There are many different options, so research a natural dye color guide to learn more. The amount depends on your preference; experiment!
- Water
- Mordant (some dyes require this to adhere to the fabric)
- Clothes hanger
- Cheesecloth or coffee filter
To prevent any additional reactions, it is recommended to wash the cloth first, even if you think it isn’t dirty.
Next, bring a pot of water to a boil and add your dye extract. TIP: The more dye plant/extract you add, the more vibrant the color will become. Later, you can add more water to dilute it. I used about a handful of onion skins and 4 cups of water.
Boil the dye plant for about an hour, as the pigment will slowly leave the object. If using an extract such as tumeric, you will not need to boil as long, just long enough to heat the water. When the plant becomes translucent, and your dye is evident, test the dye.
Take out the dye plant and strain the dye with a coffee filter or cheesecloth. TIP: The dye must be strained thoroughly, as any excess debris can create stains.
Turn off the heat and submerge the fabric scrap in the pot. Let it sit for about an hour. The fabric will appear darker until it is dry. Rinse the cloth until clean and dry. TIP: Most guides I have read recommend air drying fabric to prevent any color transfer and to seal in the color. Decide if that is your desired color, or dilute it and test again!
Now you can use your dye! TIP: After testing, make sure the dye is warmed again. Heat helps the dye transfer. Process the cloth for about an hour and thoroughly rinse it under warm, running water. Once the cloth wrings clear, it should be finished. Now your clothing is a new color! What color did you make?
Would you wear this piece? I, unfortunately, had some discoloration from light stains and poor straining of the dye; but, it helps me appreciate the chemistry of the process even more. I can’t wait to dye something else!
Experience Zurashi/Slipped for yourself this weekend before it closes on 9/1.