Alyssa Dumire, Director of Education
A few months ago, our quilt exhibition prompted me to delve into unfamiliar quilting techniques. Pieced, patchwork quilts–no matter how intricate–I understand: cut shapes are sewn together along their edges. However, as someone who enjoys sewing, today’s term, appliqué, has always seemed mystifyingly, dauntingly fiddly to me. Join me in demystifying the process for myself, and maybe you, too!
The word appliqué comes from French, meaning applied or fastened to, which closely aligns with its meaning as a quilting technique: cut-out designs are attached to a larger, background piece of cloth. It is both a noun and a verb, describing both the technique and its results. appliqué isn’t limited to quilting, but can be used to embellish anything made from cloth or leather.
Appliqué appeared as early as 3,000 years ago. One of the oldest examples is an ancient Egyptian banner, but the technique is thought to originate in Asia, where it was primarily used with leather. It spread west through trade, used to add symbols to tent canvas or military uniforms. It may have also arisen as a decorative way to mend holes. Because it is so well-suited to interpreting nature or cultural symbols, instances of appliqué appear around the world, with unique styles and methods according to place and time.
Unknown Quilter, American. Grapes and Oak Leaf Quilt. Hand-quilted cotton with appliqué and stuffed work, 1855-1875. Purchase with funds provided by the June E. Enoch Collection Fund, 2022.240. Image courtesy of FWMoA.
In the United States, appliqué quilts spread in popularity through the technique of chintz appliqué (also known as broderie perse or Persian embroidery), in which the quilter painstakingly cuts out a motif from the fancy printed fabric, increasingly imported from England throughout the 18th century. This stretched the expensive cloth further, spreading it out over a larger background. Chintz appliqué peaked in popularity in the mid-1800s, but the broader technique took off, especially for red, green, and white quilts like our Grapes and Oak Leaf Quilt, below. This ornate quilt also uses a variation on appliqué called trapunto, in which the appliqué is stuffed for added dimension as seen in the red, berry-like dots.
Unknown Quilter, American. Dresden Plate Quilt, cotton, ca. 1935. Purchased from the David Pottinger Collection of Indiana Amish Quilts with funds provided by the Beta Chapter, Fort Wayne Art League, 1992.22.5 Image courtesy of FWMoA.
While appliqué can be quite intricate, patterns like the much simpler Dresden Plate, above, also employ the technique. With a patchwork flower or circle shape stitched to a background, it is among the most popular and well-known appliqué designs.
Why use appliqué rather than piecework? Perhaps a comparison is in order! Take a look at the two basket quilts below. Can you tell which quilt uses which technique?
Mrs. Joseph S. (Amelia) Mast, American, 1899-1992. Baskets Quilt, cotton, ca. 1925. Purchased from the David Pottinger Collection of Indiana Amish Quilts with funds provided by the friends of Lee Stein in loving memory, 1992.22.50. Image courtesy of FWMoA.
Unknown Quilter, created from a design by Marie Daugherty Webster, American, 1859-1956. French Flower Basket Quilt, cotton, 1925-1935. Purchase, SC84.2016. Image courtesy of FWMoA.
Amelia Mast’s Baskets Quilt is composed of straight-sided geometric shapes, easily stitched together along their edges. While recognizable as baskets, the motif is simplified and semi-abstract. This is pieced. On the other hand, the French Flower Basket Quilt is more detailed and naturalistic, with curved, twisted handles and flowers that grow from thin stems. It would be incredibly challenging, maybe even impossible, to seam shapes like this together edge-to-edge. Appliqué also adds dimension through the layering of multiple pieces, which can be further enhanced by trapunto.
How does one appliqué? It can be as simple as cutting out a shape, then sewing it (by hand or machine) directly on top of another piece of fabric. A zig-zag or blanket stitch might enclose the edges, or they can be left raw, which, while adding interesting texture to wall-hangings, is generally undesirable for a functional quilt. Instead, the featured examples all appear to be needle-turned appliqué, in which the sewist turns the raw edges under as they hand-stitch each shape to the background, sewing through the folded edge. With matching thread and small stitches, the process is nearly invisible. Quilters may choose to embellish the turned edges with embroidery like Sue McCullough, below. There are many variations on the technique, such as reverse appliqué, where the contrasting shape is applied to the back of the main fabric, and a window cut to reveal it.
Henrietta (Sue) McCollough American 1921-2025, George McCullough, American 1923-2005. Krazy Kat Quilt, cotton, 1996 . Purchase 2022.170. Image courtesy of FWMoA.
Appliqué expands the creative possibilities of quilting. While the works featured here are more traditional, the same foundational techniques are employed by contemporary fiber artists to quilt imagery of any kind.
Plan your next visit to the FWMoA to view a variety of art mediums and techniques!